We’ve left the mountains and headed for the sea – an hour’s hydrofoil trip from Messina to Lipari – the main town on the island of Lipari.

After a quick freshen up we were off to the archaelogical museum at the Castello – where unsurprisingly the Normans had been – but before them were the Greeks and Romans, and after, the Spanish.

While not really our thing, the museum’s collection of greek pottery was really interesting, including minature theatrical masks and masses of amphorae recovered from shipwrecks.

After a bit of a Fawlty Towers experience with dinner at the hotel and a good sleep we had a serious walk today which began with a taxi trip to the western side of the island for a walk back to Lipari.  The views were fabulous as we were up high, but it was hot – and the beer with (yet another) antipasti lunch was welcome.