Day 4 of the Coast to Coast Walk: Grasmere to Glenridding

Eight mile walk with a height gain of 505 metres.

Not such a long walk so a later start of 10:45am.  We took the opportunity to have a look around the village before the tourist buses started arriving.  Visited St Oswald’s where Wordsworth is buried, which also has lovely stained glass.  Then a quick walk around the village and it was time to split up for the day.

We walked out of Grasmere and up Tongue Gill, which was a pleasant path, up to Griesdale Tarn.  We started in bright sunshine but up by the tarn showers set in and on went the wet weather gear for the first time on the trip.  

Lunch was near the Brothers Parting Stone, where  Wordsworth said goodbye to his brother for the last time.  As we walked downhill alongside Griesdale Beck to Patterdale there was sunshine and showers but the path was relatively easy.  Glenridding was only a little further along the shore of Ullswater.

Below are: the view back down to Grasmere from near the bottom of Tongue Gill, looking back at Helm Crag, the view down the Patterdale Valley, lunch break complete with waterproofs, the path towards the bottom of the Patterdale Valley, the wood at the bottom of the valley.

   
    
    
 

Day 3 of the Coast to Coast Walk: Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Ten mile walk with a height gain of 530 metres.

Leaving the bustling metropolis of Rosthwaite (several houses, a post box and a phone box), we headed up the valley to Lining Crag, following Stonethwaite Beck (a small stream).  Nice walking on a defined path but a bit rocky in places).  Steep haul up to the top of the crag but fabulous views back down the valley.

Then a boggy walk across Greenup Edge to the highest point of the day (boggy bits on top of high hills does my head in!).  Had lunch looking along a ridge line to Helm Crag, which was our afternoon walk.  Was bizarrely the first place for a couple of days we had mobile reception.  Walk along the ridge to Calf Crag, the Knott and finally Helm Crag was great – but in a few places it was very steep – eyes definitely on the path!

Then long haul on very rocky, uneven and steep path to Grasmere.  As a bonus, the room in the hotel had a bath – bliss!

Below are: leaving Stonethwaite, the Tardis to Grasmere (if only it had been true!), Lining Crag – we climbed that, the view back down the valley towards Stonethwaite from the top, lunch stop on Greenup Edge, the view down the valley to Grasmere, standing on the summit of Helm Crag, and the start of the long descent to Grasmere – this makes it look easier than it was!


  
  
  

Day 5: Day 2 of the Coast to Coast – Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Distance of 14 miles, height gain of 685 metres.

A combination of bad internet connections (the Lake District is apparently notoriously bad) and long days has made blogging difficult.  Anyway, the stretch from Ennerdale Bridge (two pubs and not much more) to Rosthwaite dawned bright and sunny.  We walked alongside Ennerdale water, then further up Ennerdale Valley to the Black Sail YHA hut (the most remote YHA in the UK).  Unfortunately, somewhere along Ennerdale water John hurt tendons in his ankle .  There was no option but to walk out so after drugs and strapping, he soldiered his way up Loft Beck and down to the Honnister Slate Mine.  Luckily, the owner of one of the B&Bs the group was staying in that night was able to come and pick him up – the walk into Rosthwaite from Honnister was arduous – lots of rocky slopes – and another one and a half hours!  We were so late in we went straight to the pub another mile on at Stonethwaite for dinner: good thing it was a walkers’ bar!
   
   
More photos to come but these are: heather in bloom on Ennerdale Water; Loft Beck, the climb out of Ennerdale to Honnister, and the Riverside Bar at Stonethwaite – dogs are generally welcome in the Lakes.

Day 4 – 31 August St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

image imageDay 1 of Wainwright Walk, 14 miles, strenuous.

Started from Stonehaven Farm B&B at 8.45 am and walked to the beach.  Group photos all round.  Then started walking up towards the lighthouse at St Bees Head, mostly along the cliff edge.  Lots of wild flowers including heather in bloom.  Views back south and north to Whitehaven and Workington.  Clear and quite warm with not much breeze and at times quite humid.

Turned inland eventually toward Sandwith (stopped for a coffee) then across Moor Row to Cleator where we stopped and had lunch in the Church Yard.  Then walked through pleasant farmlands toward Dent Hill.  The initial route straight up the hill was  very boggy.  Beyond the tree line it was a steep slog up to the top.  Views back to St Bees, the Isle of Man and Scotland.  Amazing views all round including the Lake District.  Very steep descent then a slog down Nannycatch Beck to Ennerdale Bridge.  Pub ok but no wifi hence the delayed upload of the blog.tried Aviator ale.  Not bad.

Day 3 Saturday 29 August: Manchester to St Bees

   

(John at the St Bees Priory Church West Door)

Up early-ish to get organised for the train to St Bees via Carlisle.  All went smoothly except the long weekend holiday appeared to have brought the train spotters out in force, particularly on our Carlisle to St Bees local train!

Arrived in St Bees early in the afternoon and after checking into our B&B, went for a walk around the village: which didn’t take long as it consists of one shop, three pubs and not many houses!  The main reason to visit is to walk.  Visited historic Priory Church and checked out the real ale options at the pub.  Met the rest of the group for a briefing from our guide this evening and had dinner together at the Manor pub.  Ales: Mountain Folly and Tribute.  

We start the serious walking 8:45am tomorrow.

  
(John at the Manor – after lamb shank, chicken curry and ale)

Day 3 – Saturday 29 August, Manchester to St. Bees

Early train from Manchester to Carlisle.  Getting our pre booked seat was not as intuitive as you may expect. However nice trip.

We changed to a local train in Carlisle to get to St Bees.  Train spotters were everywhere.  Not sure why.  Photographing passing trains, on the end of platforms doing more photos, talking about why a particular carriage was no longer in service!

Arrived in St Bees around 1.30 pm.  After checking in, we walked around town including the Priory Church.

Met the group for a pre brief – all experienced walkers, 3 from USA, 3 from Australia with the remaining from UK.   Had a meal from the local pub. Not bad.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Day 2 Friday 28 August: Manchester

 (John plotting the route) 
After a reasonable night’s sleep set out to explore a slightly drizzly Manchester.  Headed first across town to the Craft and Design Centre.  Lots of artisan jewellery but I was more tempted by some ceramics – unfortunately it’s too early in the trip! But  had a half decent flat white at the cafe -flat white coffee being a rare thing over here!  Then headed back in the general direction of the city centre, exploring side streets and admiring some of the grand Victorian buildings.

After lunch at a historic Victorian pub in the centre of town (Mr Thomas’s Chop House, which had fantastic original Victorian wall and floor tiles and more real ale), it was back to the hotel, along the way doing some jobs: books for the trip – we are fundamentally paper rather than e-reader people and water bottles, then dinner at the flash restaurant in the hotel.

Next: off to St Bees to meet the group and start the walk.