It’s been smokey, and now it’s wet. Good for all those fighting the Camp fire about 100 miles north of here – that’s the one you may have seen in the news that destroyed the town of Paradise. So yesterday I went with Caroline to her Wednesday sewing group (on Tuesday) to meet her friends who are my ‘virtual’ sewing group too. So we hung out at her friend Trina’s, chatted, sewed and played with Trina’s three Bouviers and Yvonne’s daschund Ruby.

Earlier that morning Caroline and I went for a walk across the other side of Lake Henessey – not as atmospheric as last year when it was misty, but still lovely.

This morning we went with Caroline to pick up a few last minute bits and bobs for Thanksgivings and then had a tasting at Brasswood, a newish winery near St Helena which was very nice and not particularly busy – in the US Thanksgiving is the equivalent of Christmas – the event everyone travels home for so Wholefoods crowds were building and very few folk were tasting in the Valley.

Dan is thawing the turkey in preparation for our event tomorrow!

Had a very quiet day yesterday but went for a walk around the vineyard next door in the afternoon. Still low visibility but the fire is slowly being brought under control and rain is still forecast for later in the week. Still beautiful colours and am paying more attention to the birdlife this year.

We arrived at Caroline and Dan’s last night after an overnight flight from Auckland to San Francisco and a bus ride to the Napa. All went smoothly on the trip but we were surprised how smokey it was flying into San Francisco. No glimpses of the Golden Gate Bridge on our bus ride this time!

There is rain is forecast for later in the week which is what it will take to really clear the air and assist in controlling the fire. The fire about 100 miles north of where we are is slowly being brought under control but is still enormous – 149,500 acres and 60% contained.

Fine morning (through the smoke) today, and we’ve just enjoyed waffles for breakfast – quiet day ahead!

After our train trip down the Taieri Gorge we were met by an old uni friend of mine, David, who, with his partner Margaret hosted us for the weekend. We had a whistlestop visit to my old university campus before heading to their place on Friday, and then after dropping Neil and Colleen at the airport to pick up their rental car and start their West Coast adventure, we had a couple of quick trips to spots near Dunedin I’d never managed to visit when I studied here due to the lack of a car; a bicycle only gets you so far!

On the way back from the airport we stopped again at the Taieri River, stll high, but not flowing as fast as higher up the valley the day before, and then at Taieri Mouth, a nice finish to our bike ride/train trip the previous day.

And in the afternoon we headed north of Dunedin to Waikouaiti, visiting the historic site of Matanaka, where the whaler Johnny Jones established a farm in 1840 which sustained the early settlers in Dunedin, and Huriawa, a historic Maori pa site nearby.

Then back to Wellington on Sunday morning to unpack, wash and get organised to fly to California on Saturday.

Last day of the ride – and the promised break in the rain came around 10am so we set off on a greasy track for the final day’s ride to Middlemarch – 41km. Finn the dog at Kokonga Lodge wagged us off an retreated to his dog house.

The track improved and the riding was easy for a bit as we rode across open farmland and then through a tunnel but it quickly became evident that it had snowed at high levels overnight when the temperature dropped profoundly!

The riding was still relatively easy, through more farmland, all the time riding alongside the Rock and Pillar Range with had a light dusting of snow on the top. All was going well (frozen fingers not withstanding) until we had almost reached Middlemarch when Colleen’s bike chain broke – our second chain break of the trip. So she pushed her bike past curious sheep into town.

After dropping our bikes, having a hot shower and a bite to eat, we were transferred to Pukerangi for the train trip down the Taieri Gorge to Dunedin, which even on an overcast day was amazing. It was also fitting to end the bike trip taking the train along the remaining part of the track

In Dunedin we were met by an old university friend of mine, David, who along with his partner Margaret, generously hosted us 4 tired bikers and provided some lovely wines from their cellar.

So after a day of exploring around Dunedin we head back to Wellington tomorrow to get ready for our Thanksgiving trip to California.

We knew it was going to be a wet day, but the forecast break never came. We had booked a tour for the morning, so had a pleasant and dry drive around the Maniototo area with Sam, a semi-retired farmer from Naseby who now does a range of things including tours. He grew up here, knew the history of the place and could answer the various questions about things we had seen as we’d been biking. On a better day we would have gone up Danseys Pass but as it was we got to see a bit of the area beyond the Trail. And had a fine lunch at the Danseys Pass Hotel.

So we were on the bikes around 2pm at Ranfurly Station but it wasn’t long before there was an issue: the chain on John’s bike snapped after about 1.5 km of the 18 km ride. As my bike was making some worrying clunking noises I went back to Ranfurly with him. Neil and Colleen pressed on in the rain.

Jacquie from Big Sky arranged for John and me to be transferred to Kokonga Lodge and for the bike providers to fix the bikes. In the end we all arrived at Kokonga at around the same time. Where it was warm, dry, Frank had a fire lit, and after a hose off washing and hot showers were the order of the day.

We ate here last night and hoped that the forecast easing of the rain would come – spoiler alert – it hasn’t. So it’s currently around 5C and with light rain. Supposed to ease off by 10. Today’s ride is 41 km through to Middlemarch with a transfer to the train for Dunedin at Pukerangi. We are planning on a 4 hour ride but may be a bit quicker depending on the track condition. We don’t want to have to sit around muddy and wet in Middlemarch but we don’t want to miss our transfer either! I see soggy sneakers in my future!

So, here are some photos of Naseby, where we stayed on Wednesday night, and an idea of how wet it was yesterday.

Weather not so favourable today: cool, black clouds and a few spits of rain which luckily never came to much. We left relatively early to try and best the change in the weather, even though it was a short day – only 25 km to Ranfurly along the Trail, then a road transfer to Naseby for the night.

A short uphill stretch got us to the highest point on the Trail and from there it was literally all downhill – it was easy to crack 30 km/h without pedalling! As well as not such good weather the countryside was less scenic – we were in the midst of green paddocks of sheep.

We had a lot of time to kill in Ranfurly so we biked around town checking out some of the Art Deco buildings which they are trying to make a feature of. Then it was a scone, coffee and twiddling our thumbs. After a short transfer to Naseby we’ve had a lazy afternoon. Dinner at the lodge we are staying in tonight, then hoping the weather is better than forecast for a trip up Danseys Pass tomorrow before a short ride (18 km) to Kokonga.

Slightly shorter ride – 31km instead of day 1’s 39km. Still fine and sunny and with much less wind. After an early walk to admire the architecture of the main street (and only street!) of Ophir accompanied by a quail (!), we left town via the historic Daniel O’Connell Bridge and we off through farmland to Lauder. Lots of lambs in the paddocks and a flat, fast ride.

After a coffee stop we rode through the Poolburn Gorge – and two tunnels and a viaduct – scenic, sunny and not a hard ride. Then it was a long stretch through the Ida Valley: more sheep, cultivation on the valley floor and a great lunch at the Oturehua Hotel before a brief cycle on to Inverair Lodge – a modern, purpose built facility right beside the Rail Trail. More than enough time to get organised for our trip to St Bathans in the afternoon.

After a transfer from Queenstown of broadly an hour and a half through the Kawarau Gorge, Cromwell and along the side of Lake Dunstan (spectacular scenery which contrasts vineyards and the bare rocky hillsides left after gold mining we arrived at Clyde and met John from Big Sky Bike Adventures to get kitted out with our ebikes.

That took a little longer than anticipated but after getting final adjustments and a quick practice spin around the car park we were off – heading towards Alexandra. The trail was firm and flat, passing through open farmland and vineyards and we soon got the hang of the bikes – you can really speed along (they assist your pedalling, they don’t replace it!) but the downside is the bikes are quite heavy.

After Alexandra the landscape became more interesting: rocky outcrops, blooming bright yellow broom and purple thyme. It didn’t take long to reach the Chatto Creek Hotel and a quick break for lunch. We saw a couple of other cycling groups there but it is early in the season so its pretty quiet on the trail. Then we were off, through more open farmland with mountains either side of the valley – and a long climb up Tiger Hill. Love those ebikes – Tiger Hill is a slow 8km climb. Unfortunately by the time we got to the top a niggling issue with Neil’s bike had become more serious and John and Neil doubled back to get a replacement bike where the Rail Trail crossed the highway – at the bottom of the hill – again – love that pedal assist!

Colleen and I pushed on and waited at Omakau but the change over was quick and the boys were only around half and hour behind us. The last part of that ride was a bit interesting with crosswinds in patches which was a little nerve wracking when you’re cycling on a raised railway embankment!

After that is was a quick 2km to Ophir and overnight stop Bakery Cottages. And a cold beer and later, dinner at Pitches Store just down the street.

We arrived in Queenstown this morning after a bit of a bumpy flight down from Wellington – thanks to spring gales sweeping New Zealand this weekend. We start riding the Otago Rail Trail on Monday, so have a weekend to reacquaint ourselves with Queenstown – we were last here nearly 20 years ago and it’s just a bit different.

It was a bit of a soggy afternoon but nonetheless we had a look around downtown and found a very nice seafood place for a light lunch. Neil and Colleen, friends from Brisbane with whom we are doing the ride, arrived yesterday.

By Monday the weather is supposed to clear – fingers crossed – for at least the first 3 days of our five day ride. We are doing the Trail at a relaxed pace, hoping that it will leave us time to do a bit of exploring as well as ample recovery time.