So, we are back in Liguria again. Yesterday we had a relatively quiet day – a wander around the village, lunch at an agriturismo in Mendatica, an even smaller village in the hills about half an hour away, and a stroll through the antique market and medieval centre of Albenga, on the coast about 40 minutes in the other direction.

The weather is warm and sunny, fabulous for strolling and gelato-sampling. We have been surprised by Pieve: for a village of around 1400 there are more shops and services than you would ever see in a similarly sized village at home including various alimentari, outdoor gear shops (there is walking in the hills around here), tabacchi (like a news agent), bakeries etc. And in the square behind the main street which serves as the car park, an enormous church – one of several in town. Yesterday, Sunday, the shops were open in the morning and folk were out and about: Monday is the day most things close here.

We have been surprised by the number of expats here: kiwis, australians, brits and others but it is not yet at the level of say, Tuscany. Out of curiosity we had a look in the local real estate agent’s window: a total fixer-upper in a smaller village could be had for 25,000 euro (and we mean total!). No, we are not tempted – we’ve heard too many stories in the last few days of the quirks of italian renovating!